Lego Mans racer looking for Lego Steve McQueen.
Image source: [Lino M, via Flickr]
Last Call- 24 Heures Du Legos Edition
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11 responses to “Last Call- 24 Heures Du Legos Edition”
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Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I have no idea how the engine in that car regulates idle and brake pressure, but on my cars it's handled by vacuum. Check the lines coming off the head on the engine and see if you can't track down one that came loose or is cracked.
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That was meant to be a reply to MrHowser.
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I imagine if you were to overfill the oil to the point where the crankshaft was actually dragging through the oil in the sump as it turns, it would slow down the idle. You'd have to overfull it quite a bit to do so, though. If it was a rough idle I would lean towards the spark plug gap being incorrect. You might also want to check if the intake hoses between the filter housing and manifold are attached tightly.
Did he do a brake flush? At my former place of employment, there was a guy who, when instructed to flush a car's brakes, would simply suck the brake fluid out of the reservoir and pour new fluid on top, which is a surefire way to introduce air to the braking system. Bleeding the brakes could be in order.-
The difference between full and add on the dipstick is usually a quart, so you probably have 4 quarts in your oilpan. The pedal dropping once you start the engine is a good sign (it means the vacuum brake booster is working), but it shouldn't go to the floor.
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I'll second/third/fourth/? the air in the brakes as the cause of you brake issues, need to bleed them.
The noise you hear when you turn the key to on is the fuel pump and you want to hear it, its a good thing.
As far as the ignitor, they have a tendency to be iffy in hondas, a few weeks ago I replaced the ignitor on my integra and the new one went bad when I tried to start the car a second time.
I don't know if too much oil would affect the idle, try draining it back down to the correct level and see if it helps. -
If he replaced the igniter then the Distributor was removed or a different one was installed. The timing could be off and that would cause a change in idle. A vacuum leak normally causes a high idle, the pcv off could cause a lower, not to noticable, idle at times. First order of business is to look at the distributor housing where it attaches to the side of the head and see it looks like it is in a new posistion.
The rear brakes, being soft, instead of air in the lines I would bet a rear wheel cylinder is now leaking, just a bit. Start looking for moisture at the rear wheels. Air in the system you would be able to pump them up to stiff on two or three pedal pushes with the engine running. then after driving some it would be soft. One other thing is they are still adjusted to low. Not likely because you mention the pedal is soft and going to the floor, not that you can pump it up to stiff. Misadjusted rear shoes you could pump to stiff on two or three pedal pushes.
Look a the distributor first, look for moisture at the rear wheels. -
As for the Lego race car. I'll run 'em 🙂
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Would I post anything else?
<img src="http://www.orange.co.uk/images/editorial/ford-gt-lego-450-270509.jpg">-
How about Lego ladies?
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Just for you, Mobie.
<img src="http://albotas.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/jc-dc-lego-new-era-cap-2.jpg">
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Steve McQueen's awesome content is too high to be contained in Lego form.
![http://www.orange.co.uk/images/editorial/ford-gt-lego-450-270509.jpg">](http://www.orange.co.uk/images/editorial/ford-gt-lego-450-270509.jpg">){kind=link}
![http://albotas.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/jc-dc-lego-new-era-cap-2.jpg">](http://albotas.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/jc-dc-lego-new-era-cap-2.jpg">){kind=link}
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