“The time has come,” the Walrus said, “to talk of many things…”
…but mainly the time has come to hand off my wagon to a new owner who’s got the time and motivation to help it live up to its potential. That’s right, the hoonwagon is for sale. Looks like I’m adding another, more affordable option to Jim’s latest post.
Specifically, we’re talking about a 1967 Ford Country Sedan. The Country Sedan was a mid-level trim spec between the bottom-feeder Ranch Wagon and the Top o’ the Line Country Squire. This particular example is powered by a 315hp, 427lb-ft 390ci FE-series V8, breathing through a 625 CFM Carter/Edelbrock AFB four barrel. That torque monster of a mill is backed up by a near-indestructible C6 and big-bearing 9″ rearend with 3.00:1 gearing. It’s got power steering, power brakes (drums all around) and seating for 10. It’s currently rolling on brand new 225/60 R15 BFG Radial T/As on 15×7″ black Cragar steelies. More info after the jump.
The stat sheet on this beast of a wagon is indeed impressive, but obviously condition is the relevent factor. Mechanically speaking, it’s in pretty dang good shape. The motor’s got a little over 100k on it, but was rebuilt around 85k. The transmission appears to have been rebuilt, but I can’t find a receipt for it. The rearend appears to have a leaky axle seal on one side, which is a 15 minute fix (in fact, I might get around to it before it sells).
The engine runs well and is never short on power, but the idle’s not as strong or low as I’d like (currently about 800rpm in neutral, 500-650 in gear). I suspect there may be a small vacuum leak somewhere non-obvious. I’ve got a new carb gasket on order, which might get installed, depending on time. When it gets warm outside, the engine tends to get hot quickly if you’re not moving. A Taurus electric fan and new fan controller kit from Summit are included with the car. The oil pan drain plug leaks due to partially stripped threads. I’ll see what I can do for a quick fix, but a new pan is $50 from Summit.
Mechanically speaking, it’s in good shape, but what about cosmetic issues? Simply put, it’s one big rolling cosmetic issue. The grey paint appears to be at least the second coat, and it’s faded, chipped and scratched all over. There may be one or two body panels without some kind of dent. Maybe. From a southwestern perspective, the car’s rusty. From the perspective of anyone with salted roads, it’s nearly pristine. Specifically, the full ladder frame and chassis bits are rock solid. In addition to the light surface rust (let’s call it PAHtina), there are a few concerning rust spots on the car: the rear tailgate, the bottom of one of the doors, parts of the windshield surround, and the floor of the “way back”. I’ve hit the tailgate with Eastwood rust converter and encapsulator, which halted the progress of that cancer. If I get around to it, I might be able to give the other spots the same treatment. If not, the supplies to do so yourself are pretty cheap from Eastwood.
The interior’s somewhere in between the exterior and drivetrain, condition-wise. The way-back and middle-back vinyl bench seats are in remarkably great condition, but the front is completely shot. Right now it’s got a blanket over it, but I have a brand new high-quality saddle blanket seat cover to go on it in a box…that I may or may not get around to installing. The headliner has a couple of rips, but I have a new one in a box. The carpet is in decent shape (faded, no major rips), but I have a brand new carpet kit in a box. The dash pad is shot, but it’s got a custom-fit black cover over it. The gauges all work, with the exception of a battery gauge I never got around to hooking up (never really needed it). The AM radio works, but the tuner knob doesn’t, meaning you’re left with someone else’s presets. It should be easy enough to pull the radio and fix what’s wrong with the tuner connection. The clock doesn’t work.
A miscellaneous list of other things that you should know: the wipers don’t work, as there’s no wiper switch. Don’t know why it was removed, but I have one in a box. The dash switch for the tailgate glass doesn’t work (but the on-door key switch does), don’t know why, but I’ve got a replacement switch. The front end has a mild shimmy at 65-70, but not above or below (so go faster). The windshield has a scratch on it that matches a bad wiper arm, but I’ve got a (used) replacement that comes with the car. It needs weatherstripping all over the place (doesn’t leak…just a little drafty). A nice rumble-y dual exhaust would make the car (and driver) a lot happier.
You might be noticing a theme here…namely a bunch of small, relatively inexpensive things that I may or may not have time for. Pretty much the story across the board on this baby. I’m selling because I just don’t have the time or motivation to build this car out to its full potential. I was hoping to do some mild upgrades to the motor, drop in a 3.73:1 LSD rearend and go embarrass a few people at the drag strip. With a set of air shocks (~$60 from Summit), some cooling upgrades and a hitch, this would make a great tow vehicle. Provided you’re interested in stopping, there are number of disc brake options to be had, ranging from DIY junkyard sourced stuff out to serious big-brake kits for both the front and rear.
I’m asking $3500, with the emphasis on asking. I’ll readily admit there are prettier or better-sorted classic wagons out there, possibly both, for that kind of price. But it’s worth noting that very few have the capability and potential upside that my Country Sedan does. Many are small block, low-compression, light duty cars with pathetic brakes. That, or wheezy, ugly malaise-mobiles. Provided you’re willing to do some work yourself, I’d say there’s definitely less than 10 grand between where it is now and the version of this car that’s worth $15k. With a little (or a lot) of time and money, it could be a legitimate replacement for a new(ish) truck or SUV, as its hauling capabilities have been well demonstrated.
The car includes all the aforementioned fix-it parts, along with all the stock engine bay things I’ve taken off (valve covers, air cleaner, smog pump), all the aluminum trim and badges that have been removed, and an assortment of other bits that go with the car. Also included is the set of Keystone “fake Cragar” wheels and the somewhat old and cracked Dunlop GT Qualifiers wrapped around them, something like 215/70R15 on a 15×7″ front and 225/75R15 on 15×8″ rear. They look good, but at least one front wheel is slightly bent. Also, I will be re-installing the fuel filler door.
For all its little issues, I’m still going to miss it, for sure. I’ll always remember the sound of the secondaries opening up while blasting up an on-ramp as the car rocks back on its springs.
Drop me a line at mad_science@hooniverse.info if you’d like to make an offer or find out more. The car’s located in Los Angeles, and I can make reasonable accommodations to meet up around southern California and/or deal with a shipping company.
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