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Hooniverse Asks- What’s Your Least Favorite Automotive Maintenance Task?

Robert Emslie January 30, 2014 Hooniverse Asks 93 Comments

Porsche 16

This past weekend I changed out the rear struts on my 240Z, and my thumb and forefinger on my right hand still smart from the half hour or so I spent attempting to start the flare nut brake line threads into the flexi-hose. I approached the job with trepidation for just this reason, as I had replaced the hard bridges of the back brakes with new stainless steel lines a while ago when I discovered the old lines were stuck tight and needed to go. The angle of the pipe makes it extremely difficult to get the thread started straight, and it’s a maddening job to get the connections all done up right.

You’ll be hearing more about that adventure in the near future, but today I want to hear about the regular maintenance jobs that you really loathe to do, or at least make you uneasy. Some jobs, like doing the brakes might make you squeamish just because of their primary function as a safety tool, and the fear that screwing them up may end up with you careening off a cliff. Of course if you’ve read my handy dandy Hooniverse 101 post on drums then you should be completely confident.

But what other job leaves you sullen and cranky at the mere thought, even though you know it has to be done? What is your least favorite maintenance task demanded of your car? 

Image source: Sports Car Digest

  • onrails

    Flushing coolant, followed by bleeding brakes. Coolant because there's just no way to do it cleanly. Brakes because I don't do it often enough to justify a power bleeder.

    • James

      Advance Auto will loan it to you for free if you've got one near by.

    • Jeff

      I've never had a problem flushing coolant. I just wait until a hose blows and let gravity finish the job. I've had success flushing ATF fluid from GM vehicles using this method as well.

    • Vairship

      Flushing coolant is easy.



    Differential fluid changes. Good god gear oil smells awful, and the stink doesn't come off your hands for days. The only time I wear gloves when working on a car.

    • Scandinavian Flick ★

      Gloves are like condoms; double up for extra protection.

    • I have a few shirts that have a permanent stench of gear oil. No matter how many times I wash them, it's still there.

      • R Henry

        I actually kinda like the smell…on work shirts….

  • I think that as long as you are thoroughly prepared, just about any automotive task should go fairly well.

    The thing is, I am never, ever ever ever prepared.

  • Zaxbys

    I'm gonna go with a blanket statement and say "dealing with anything rusty". A few years back I swapped the rear suspension between a 92 escort lx-e (recently replaced struts, and disc brakes) and 98 escort (everything else was nicer than the lx-e). Everything came out of the 92 fairly easily. That wasn't the case with the 98. There were 4 bolts that held the subframe in place. I snapped the heads off 3 of them, and the 4th just spun the nut in the frame rail and had to be cut off. The weekend project then had to sit for a week until I could get a friend to come over to weld everything together. Now I have a nearly rust free (some surface stuff underneath) PT cruiser so life is good.

    • I am SO spoiled in that regard. I've pretty much never had to deal with rusty cars, and I have two 25+ year old cars sitting in my garage right now.

      • Zaxbys

        Correct me if I'm wrong, bit you live in Cali, correct? That would explain a lot. Cars in your state only get rusty if they're driven into the ocean…

        • Yup, that's right. Cars that live within a mile of the ocean can get rusty, but otherwise, they're nice and dry.

    • Eric Rood

      This is pretty much the exact same experience we had building our LeMons Escort, except everything from the donor car was rusted and/or smashed from accident damage AND everything on the 91 LX was rustier and/or broken from age.

      We went through a case of PB Blaster and still broke a few dozen bolts off on both cars.

      • Zaxbys

        Except it's not limited to escorts. Replacing the front suspension in the t-bird was a bear too. 30 mm nuts on the front of each of the strut rods (what t-bird peeps call them; they're more like a trailing arm) were removed by stepping on the wrench on one side, and using a jack to raise the wrench on the other. Then I took it to get aligned and a rear alignment bolt snapped and since there aren't oem or aftermarket ones made, an f-150 bolt was shortened and used.

        Also, if you're looking for ridiculously priced escort parts cars (and southern mn isn't too far), I know a guy. And he might be me…

        • Eric Rood

          Just sold it to some poor rube…I mean, uh, aspiring racer. But I'll point him your way for spares.

    • CopterBob

      No doubt, rust makes every task miserable. Growing up a few blocks from the beach on FLs east coast, it took moving away to realize that the entire world didn't start every car maintenance task with cans of rust penetrant, giant wire brushes, hammers, chisels and nut splitters.

    • Remember, those Escorts were developed with Mazda. Rust was inevitable.

      On my '93, when I put a clutch in it 2 of the 4 bolts on the long front to back engine brace under the car broke off. Thankfully it was one on each end, so I called 50% of the fasteners close enough and just screwed it back together. It ran another 90K when the throwout bearing went. Knowing what Iwas in for under there (and with 185K on it), I gave the car away.

      On my daughter's '98 I discovered it had floor pan rust. I pulled the carpets back and discovered this (apologies for the poor Twitpic link):

      <img src="http://twitpic.com/show/thumb/bc306a.jpg&quot; width="150" height="150" alt="My daughter's Escort reveals its #Mazda heritage. on Twitpic">

      On the other hand, on my '60 T'bird, having lived in SoCal until 1878, the entire front suspension came out with little trouble when i rebuilt it a few years ago. I was ready to battle rusted fasteners and there simply weren't any.

      • Zaxbys

        My 98 also had floor pan rust. About two months after the suspension swap, one of the connecting rods decided it didn't need to a single piece. When we couldn't get the oil pan off (there's a bolt that goes though the transmission housing with open threads) we decided to call it quits.

  • <img src="http://www.koracing.net/productimages/Buckets.jpg&quot; width="520">
    Setting valve clearance with under-cam adjustment shims. Routine maintenance that feels more like an engine rebuild.

    <img src="http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/3sbucket/motor.jpg&quot; width="520">

    • I have the shim-under-bucket type on my Laverda. And a 3000 mile adjustment period. Luckily, they designed an escape hatch in the bottom of the case so you can fetch the cam chain out of there, because sooner or later, you will drop it.

      I thought Suzuki or Honda had a tool to tiddly-wink the shim-over-bucket type out of there without disturbing the cams?

      • Ate Up With Motor

        Toyota's '80s DOHC engines let you change the shims without removing the cams. I never tried adjusting the valves on a twin-cam Honda, so I don't know the procedure offhand, but their SOHC engines used rockers rather than bucket tappets, so you set the clearances with a feeler gauge. This was certainly less hassle than removing the cams, but still a very awkward chore best performed with three arms: one to loosen the lock nut, one to apply the feeler gauge, and a third to turn the adjustment screw. Just for fun, tightening the lock nut tended to move the adjustment screw, throwing off the clearance you had just set.

    • nanoop

      Italian design?

      • Jaguar also used that method in the XK engine.

  • Changing the transmission.

    <img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/9177252539_7a55c91b02.jpg&quot; width=650>

    …but maybe that's just a regular maintenance job with our race car.

    But honestly, spark plug changes. On some cars, (such as my BMW), it's cake, but on any FWD V6 vehicle, such as my wife's Highlander, it requires that you disassemble a lot of stuff to get access to the rear bank of plugs, and then I also have to basically lay across the engine. And even then, I'm always a bit nervous about threading/tightening plugs in aluminum heads.

    • Scandinavian Flick ★

      I'm going to +1 spark plugs. Especially on any car with more than 4 cylinders. Doubly so with coil on plug. At best, it's tedious. At worst, it's a back twisting pain in the ass…

      Then there's roatries… The lower plugs are a pain in the ass to get to from the top or under the car. Also leading and trailing plugs are different, and they all look like this.

      <img src="http://i.imgur.com/CgGrbFu.jpg&quot; width="300">

      When I got my first set, I thought they were broken… I also installed them wrong the first time, so I had to do it all over again… They should make the leading and trailing thread pitch different, or something.

  • Sjalabais

    I'm gonna say "everything". Being a useless academic with sausage fingers has clear limits. Even when I start with eager enthusiasm, I usually round it up with a primal scream and intentional destruction.

  • $kaycog

    Adding a quart of engine oil. It's just so messy.

    <img src="http://i.imgur.com/gpALGIH.gif"width="500"/&gt;

    • Van_Sarockin

      Maybe if you tried making smaller, more delicate circles?

      And always make sure the filler cap is on and the hood closed before starting the car…

      • $kaycog

        Good advice! Also, wearing coveralls might be a good idea.

    • BobWellington

      I hope you remembered to refill the blinker fluid as well.

      • $kaycog

        Most definitely. I also remembered to change the air in the tires.

        • You didn't throw it out, did you? It works just as well to rotate it from tire to tire.

          • $kaycog

            No, I didn't throw it out. I put it in the air recycling bin.

            • Mine's always full every time I look.

  • There are so many…

    Changing the starter or solenoid on a 2.0 liter Alfa engine requires most mortals, including me, to remove the intake and is at least a half day job.

    Changing the spark plugs on my Lego GT is a royal PITA because there is perhaps an inch of clearance between the top of the plugs and the frame rail. I'm dreading the upcoming timing belt.

    Fuel pump in a Chrysler minivan with Stow N' Go requires dropping the tank (and breaking a plastic fitting or two, if you're not careful).

    • Starter replacement sounds like Toyota/Lexus V8s, as you have to completely remove the intake manifold to access it. Replacing the starter on an LS400 was even a LeMons penalty once.

      Last year I changed the starter in my friend's Tundra while in the middle of the desert. Took about half a day, but I finally got it all put back together and….. it still wouldn't start. Turned out it was a flaky cable connection at the battery all along. Other people had supposedly already checked basic stuff like that, but apparently not well. I was not happy.

  • nanoop

    This being Hooniverse I should say 'putting the gear into D', but actually I hate detailing the exterior, especially wheels. Interior is fine for me.

    • Scandinavian Flick ★

      On that first note, I dislike doing any maintenance on an automatic transmission. I have that sinking feeling that I'm doing a disservice to the automotive world by maintaining an automatic…

    • BobWellington

      Ahh, I forgot about cleaning/detailing. I mean I enjoy making my car clean, but it just takes so long to do a good job. And it takes so long to do a poor job of it as well, which is usually what I do.

  • krazykarguy

    Rear spark plugs AND an alternator on an '04 V-6 Ford Escape. Same weekend – I must have pissed off the mechanic deities.

    IIRC, replacing the alternator required removal of the wheel, RH axle, loosen the A/C lines, remove the serpentine belt, and a pull off a bunch of other crap. Not cool, Ford – although I'm sure the UAW thanks you for having a car that screws together in 4 big parts.

    As a final FU, this POS mocked me with it's plastic intake manifold COMPLETELY OBSCURING the rear valve cover and the plugs. The whole thing has to be removed, carefully. It's PLASTIC – break it even a little bit and you're screwed.

    • Yup, I changed the plugs on my wife's Escape V6 too. Thankfully the manifold wasn't too horrible to remove.

  • POLAЯ☄NienSlooshboxn

    The ones my wife nags at me for doing when I shouldn't cause I'm broken in many places, followed by the one(s) I can't do myself.

  • Wrestling with 'C' clips on wheel cylinders of old British drum brakes.

  • JayP2112

    I really dread changing out the plugs on the 3v 4.6… since the plugs are prone to break and need a special tool.

    Anything that involves shims. I can never get that crap right.

  • Van_Sarockin

    Changing broken CV joint boots. I have a bear of a time wrestling with the retaining circlips. What should be a half hour job winds up taking a weekend. I know I should get a better set of pliers than the cheap and pathetic ones I've used for years, but I only have to do this every few years.

    • krazykarguy

      Messing with CV grease and nasty old axles is pretty low on my list, too. I replace the whole thing now. Replacing boots is an economic loser of a job now.

      Front axle assembly for my car at AutoZone: $70 (gold level part, lifetime warranty, ALL new components – not re-man)
      Just the boot: $30

      The labor to replace a boot is the same as axle replacement, PLUS R&R the boot. My time is more valuable than that – while you're still messing around with boot clamps and a colostomy bag of grease, my car is put back together, with a brand-new axle.

      Replacing boots ONLY makes sense if reman is unavailable for your car, BUT the boots ARE.

      • nanoop

        For worn (not broken) CV joints I like the idea of just exchanging the left and right hand drive axles, (right before I sell the car)… usually this doesn't work for front drive cars due to different lengths.
        In my defense: I never sold a car in my life.

  • Changing coil springs. The entire time I have the spring compressor on I'm imaging it slipping/breaking and spring flying at my face. The only sliver lining I can find in that entire scenario is then I would have something in common with Felipe Massa.

    • POLAЯ☄NienSlooshboxn

      Only if we can become completely tasteless, God forbid it should ever happen my Engineerng friend, and call you hamburger-face.

    • Van_Sarockin

      I've got spring compressors, from Sears, that have a little flip-up spring retainer, so they can't slip off the spring and kill you. Very reassuring, and I'm not dead yet.

    • Scandinavian Flick ★

      I have the same phobia. I've had to do coils on MacPherson struts twice, and what I did both times was take the whole assembly to my local Pep Boys service center and have them swap the springs. They only charged me $10 each. I'd gladly pay about 3 or 4 times that to avoid that fear of permanent disfigurement…

      • Yeah the times I've replaced strut inserts on cars, I've just taken the strut assemblies off, and brought them to my mechanic who has a wall mounted spring compressor to remove the springs for me.

      • R Henry

        Pussy! Just re-up your life insurance and go for it!

    • nanoop

      Same fear here, did it only once as a sidekick. It's irrational: we have these machines that breath fire and use EXPLOSIONS, THOUSANDS per minute, in order to go at paces no horse will ever reach (unless driving), but this simple job, involving static forces only, makes us shiver.

      • Ate Up With Motor

        It's a question of scale. If you're subject to acrophobia, looking out the window of a moving airplane at 15,000 feet might not give you any particular qualms, but a slippery fire escape 30 feet off the pavement is deeply intimidating. Also, by the time one sets about most maintenance tasks, the fire and explosions have (hopefully) temporarily ceased, while ye demons of stored spring force and potentially high voltage are still hanging around waiting to pounce on the unwary.

  • Zedrick99

    From the current Chumpcar project: fuel filter on a Mk3 Supra. Nothing like giving the diff a big hug while you're blindly fiddling with banjo fittings.

  • Neen85

    Timing belts….scheduled maintenance that is necessary but is transparent to the driver (unless then belt is broken to begin with)

    <img src="http://s3-media3.ak.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/CRwwQ3XweXewLPOceeHu_g/l.jpg&quot; width="600">

    • windbuechse

      Try doing it on a MR2 with size 9 hands….

    • Chris Gifford

      The Audi 2.7t always a good time.

  • BusBuddha67

    With my '67 VW Bus, and sticking just to a task that's maintenance, I'd probably have to say setting the timing and then tuning the carb. Yeah, they are pretty simple compared to most things, but compared to just getting under and adjusting the valves, it's not something I go racing out to the driveway filled with excitement to do. 🙂

  • CalculatedRisk

    Anything involving multiple plastic clips or separating old plastic electrical connectors. Best case scenario is that your hands are cut up and have a negative imprint of the connector. I usually break about 1/4 of the plastic clips I encounter and I don't know if any of the connectors on my '82 toyota still have their locking tabs intact.

  • rennsport964

    I'm lame, since I generally opt to farm everything out.

    But a friend of mine recently had to change the battery out of his Pontiac Solstice. This procedure involves removing the front fender well liner and the fender. Seriously.

  • BobWellington

    Haven't really had any really bad experiences working on my Explorer. Flushing the coolant was probably the most involving job. Seeing as it was my first time flushing the coolant, I had to watch a bunch of videos on Youtube to really make sure I understood what I was doing. I'm not sure what I'd do without how-to videos. Changing the fuel filter was kind of messy, but not too bad. Certainly not something I look forward to, though.

    • That sucks…

    • Vairship

      Why were you chasing it? It sounds like it made its presence very clearly known, and it probably didn't run very far… 😉

  • Front wheel bearings on a 4WD Chevy truck (1973-1986). Lots of little C-rings and clips that have to be put on just right:
    <img src="http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Steve7654/2006-10-24_123724_hub1.gif"width=500&gt;
    Everything is covered in old axle grease too.

    Also U-Joints without a proper press. Seems every time I would try to hammer them in one of the needle bearings would fall over.

  • Oil changes.

    Yeah, I know it's easy, but I just hate dealing with the used oil and if I can get the flunkies at the local quick lube to do it for $40 it seems like money well spent.

    Also, headlights like on my Mazda3 with the crazy wire clips that flop around until you magically get it clipped in the right place while doing it blind back in a hole. Rube Goldberg would be proud.

    On my wife's Prius, the official headlight bulb change procedure requires removal of the lamps which requires removal of the bumper. Thankfully, you can squeeze your hands in behind and do it without if you don't have huge hands.

    • Ate Up With Motor

      Second on the headlights. The clip is bad enough, but what really burns me when I've had to do that chore on my Mazda3 is that the removable bulb socket isn't locked in place by anything but the banjo clip and can move around quite a bit while you're fighting with the clip, potentially leaving the light out of alignment. I can't see any earthly reason for the socket not to click into the slot in some reasonably positive way, perhaps with some kind of longitudinal ridge on one side so that you can also be assured you have the socket in the right way despite not being able to see what you're doing at all. I would be marginally less aggravated by the clip if the bulb and socket weren't wobbling in their loose-fitting receptacle the whole time.

      • krazykarguy

        Anyone who has ever replaced a headlight bulb that is held in with that spring clip will agree with this. H1/H3/H4/H7 all need to be permanently outlawed by the ASE.

        This type of bulb also requires the headlamp unit to be sealed from the outside by a cover, whereas the other 'twist-in' types of bulbs seal upon installation. More often than not, a car with condensation in the headlamp has one of these clipped-in bulbs, and an access cover with a missing or pinched o-ring.

  • Devin

    Anything that involves sticking my big fat hands into a place which is smaller than my big fat hands.

  • The timing chain on 1994-1998 Saab 900's and 1999-2003 9-3's. Even after removing all the accessories on the passenger side of the engine bay and the plastic inner fender skirt access panel, you have a 3" wide gap between the timing chain cover and the metal of the inner fender in most places. Somehow you're supposed to unbolt the timing chain cover, then remove the timing chain, guides and sprockets in the ensuing slightly larger gap.

    Saab dealers got around this by removing the whole engine. I got around this by unhooking the exhaust at the manifold, the motor mounts and transmission mount, then using a 5ft prybar to shove the engine over to the driver's side by a couple of inches. Then I could barely snake in a socket and wrench to get the cover off. Next time I'll just pay a mechanic.

  • I_Borgward

    Brakes, brakes, brakes! Working on braking systems is nearly always a loathsome job in each and every aspect.

    You just thought you were going to throw some pads on and call it a day, but guess what? Those flex lines aren't looking so good. The wheel bearings aren't, either.

    And now, even with the proper flare nut wrench and lots of penetrating lube, you've just managed to strip the head off of the brake line connection to the flex line. Aaagh! Brake line replacement time. Who knows where the other end terminates? Hidden somewhere deep in the filthy, inaccessible bowels of the undercarriage, no doubt. Can, meet worms.

    Disk brakes! Those calipers seem decent enough… you can probably compress the pistons back square into their bores, right? Because if you don't do it just so, a piston will likely seize up in a few weeks and you'll get to do this job all over again. Do you feel lucky, punk?

    Drum brakes! Time to wedge your hand in behind the backing plate and endlessly turn that adjuster… turn that adjuster… turn that adjuster. You hope that the drum hasn't rusted itself to the axle shaft. What? You've finally removed the drum? Dealt with that cloud of toxic brake dust? Great! Now you can see the Chinese puzzle of brake springs and clips. If you're careful, you can get all of them off without having one fly away under a wood pile. By the way, your axle shaft seal is leaking and there's gear oil all over everything.

    Master cylinder! Power brake booster! ABS! The list of potential misery is nearly endless.

    But now, disassembly is complete, and the joy of the parts store run begins. If you're lucky, you'll only have to go to two or three stores to round everything up. A quart or two of plasma will be drained from you as you negotiate with high school dropout clerks… no, 1981, not 1991. Yes, power brakes, just like I've told you four times now. Half of the parts you need must be special ordered and won't arrive for days.

    Next, a trip to the machine shop, where you'll be informed that one of your rotors is completely out of spec, can't be turned and must be replaced.

    One week later, you've finally got all of your parts. Ducks are in a row. Time to reassemble and bleed.

    Eeesh. Bleeding. With either a power bleeder or friend with a foot, this usually involves calisthenics, more filth, spilled brake fluid and a string of expletives as you try to get a wrench on the cruelly obscured bleeder screws. Wouldn't this be a good time to have a bleeder screw snap off?

    Yes, brake work can be very educational… there's nothing better to teach one how to cuss.

  • schigleymischke

    Anything involving removing tires. My lower back hates it. Is there a way to do it comfortably and pain free that doesn't involve a lift?

    • Preludacris

      A visit to Tire Rack for a set of the lightest wheels that fit your car?
      I got a set that weighs around 11lb per wheel (without tires of course) "Because Racecar" – but noticed it made swapping them around a lot easier.

  • jeepjeff

    Given my track record and current work space, anything that involves a press.

  • PotbellyJoe ★★★★☆

    <img src="http://i.clbsn.com/photos/1/47/83448_70b576adcb.jpg&quot; width="550/">
    Changing the low-beam headlight on any modern Japanese compact car.

    Seriously, who has hands that small?

    I shouldn't have to move the battery, or air box in order to change a headlight.

    I mean I know I was spoiled with the 94 F-150's engine bay, but seriously, some of these are ridiculously tight!

    • quattrovalvole

      I concur. Changing a low beam on a Civic (8th gen) involves the following steps:

      1. turn your wheel the opposite way of the side you're working on (i.e. crank wheel to full left to change passenger-side bulb)
      2. attempt to pull out the fender liners without damaging the clips
      3. remove all fender clips with a hammer out of frustation
      4. blindly navigate your hand around frame rails to reach & remove the old bulb
      5. do the same to put the new bulb in
      6. go to ebay to order a bag of 100 fender clips to replace the ones you broke earlier (and for spare)

      ** This is supposedly the "easy" way to do this.

    • Yep, see my comment above. The official procedure on my Prius requires removal of the bumper cover. Thankfully, there is a way to avoid that, but you've gotta remove the washer tank or fuse box cover instead.

  • Slow_Joe_Crow

    The ultimate hell job is probably setting cam timing on Porsche 356 Carrera engine (the one with 4 gear driven cams), this is officially an all day job for an experienced factory mechanic.
    Personally the two jobs I avoid are greasing the clutch splines on a BMW Airhead since you need to remove the transmission, which requires taking off the airbox, carbs, battery box and swingarm. The second thing I avoid is working on a BMW Airhead transmission, since you need to heat it with a torch to remove the cover.
    I'll also second anything involving gear oil, nasty stinky viscous stuff.

  • ex MB owner.

    Replacing the ACC servo unit on mid/late '70s Mercedes models redefines the meaning of royal-pain-in-the-ass. The Chrysler designed unit controlled coolant flow to the heater, vacuum routing to all the flap actuators, and electrical function switching of the ACC system. This steaming pile of excretia was prone to locking up the internal gear drive, leaking coolant through numerous housing cracks, and/or causing unending climate control malfunctions due to MB routing the bundle of rubber vacuum lines under the battery which was prone to boil-over and rotting the hoses. The MB bean counters bought this from ChryCo because they were too cheap to design their own proper system. An MB replacement servo unit will delete one's bank account to the tune of $700. The aftermarket units are junk and not to be trusted to last more than a couple of months. Whoever designed this engineering wonder should be flogged, drawn and quartered, and made to watch late night QVC sales pitches.

  • R Henry

    Door panel removal. Especially on cars with manual window cranks retained by horseshoe clips. Even with the "special tool" they are a pain to remove.. Additionally, I ALWAYS end up breaking one or more of the plastic clippy things on the perimeter. Seems they are mostly "single use" items. I think self drilling sheet metal screws were devised to replace the plastic 'clippy" things.

    • I've found that a cone wrench (liberated from the bike kit) does the same job as well.

  • mattc

    Anything on my beater GMC Sonoma, period. I have never dealt with a more frustrating car to do routine maintenance. Change a #3 spark plug , remove the intermediate steering shaft. Replace a squeaky blower motor, remove inner fender well, Ecu, washer bottle, and try to remove unreachable #10 bolts. Luckily the truck is reliable so there is that….

  • Chris Gifford

    Any heater core replacement that involves removing the dash.

    • krazykarguy

      Isn't that ALL of them??

  • Wheel bearings on the Vibe. Despite getting it down to a couple of hours, it's still a disassemble everything in the drivetrain, press bearing out, hope you press the bearing in right, reassemble and pray you get further than the last one.

    Newer versions are apparently a bolt on affair I long for.

    I've already identified that I will not at all ever try to replace the struts on the Mazda5. They are clamped together and slid into the arms. Nope, no, no.

  • manny warren

    Any maintenance task that starts with volkswagen beetle…

  • MrDPR

    I absolutely dread checking / adding power steering fluid in my 2008 Grand Prix. The pump is against the firewall and accessible only from the passenger side, with a very thin arm. When I first purchased it new, I looked all over the motor & the owner's manual and could not find the ps pump. Service advisor at the dealership told me it was electric. **DING!* Wrong answer! Knowing where the pump is does not make it easier to access, but having the correct long-stem funnel takes the pain out of adding fluid.

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